![]() Surfers are usually acutely aware of weather conditions, paying close attention to wind direction and swell size. Grommet – these are young surfers, usually under the age of 15.They are the worst kind of surfer and have spawned a number of hilarious Instagram channels, like Kook of the Day. They might just be out in the lineup causing a scene – usually about being a local and seeing strangers paddling out. They might drop-in on another surfer’s wave, or paddle into waves beyond their skill level, putting others at risk. Kook – a kook could be any of the above categories because it simply means someone with little consideration for others.To advance to intermediate level, a beginner surfer should at least be able to bottom turn (take off, then drop down and change direction) before riding along the face of an unbroken wave. Some people never graduate from this category. Beginner surfer – someone just getting started or who surfs only a few times per year.Intermediate surfers generally have a day job and may be considered “weekend warriors”. They get barrelled (ride inside of a wave) occasionally and may even do a radical (high performance) move every now and then. They can confidently ride small and medium-sized waves and will be able to perform a range of manoeuvres, including cut backs (changing direction), top turns (hitting the lip or the steepest part of the wave) and floaters (riding over a breaking lip). Intermediate surfer – someone who surfs regularly but doesn’t necessarily revolve their life around the surfing.They tend to base their lives around surfing and have jobs that enable them to prioritise catching waves over work. ![]() They are confident in most conditions and can perform a wide range of manoeuvres. ![]() Hardcore surfer – someone who surfs most days of the week and has travelled widely.An example is Jamie “J.O.B.” O’Brien who lives on the beach at the aforementioned Pipe, and presents a great Youtube channel about his exploits. For example, you get specialist “big wave surfers” or those who are a “Pipe specialist” – meaning they have mastered the Banzai Pipeline in Hawaii. Specialist surfer – someone who has specialised in one wave or type of condition.An example is Dave “Rasta” Rastovich who has become an important voice in ocean conservation. They are usually sponsored to travel and shoot videos for on of the major surf brands. Free surfer – someone who has reached the elite level but does not compete in competitions.An example is 11-time world champion, Kelly Slater. Professional surfer – an elite athlete, usually competing in the World Surf League.There are no formal levels in surfing but some loose definitions are: Nowadays a surfer can learn and develop their skills in a range of wave pools, from Texas to Switzerland. For previous generations this meant living close to an ocean coastline with regular wave activity. ![]() What is a surfer?Ī surfer is someone who has mastered the skills required to stand on a surfboard and ride along a breaking wave. Throughout his life, Duke continued to surf on traditional Hawaiian surfboards, staying true to his roots, and the aloha spirit. He gave similar demonstrations everywhere from New Zealand to California, planting the seeds of what would become the global surfing subculture.ĭuke was inducted into the Surfing Hall of Fame and, when Hawaii became a state in 1959, was named an Ambassador of Aloha. He was the star of the world’s first surfing exhibition at Freshwater Beach in Sydney, Australia, in 1915, demonstrating not only how to ride waves but also how to shape boards from local wood. ![]() He embarked on several world tours both to give swimming demonstrations and to share his passion for surfing. World-renowned for his swimming prowess, demand for Duke’s attendance at competitions and exhibitions around the world increased. Aloha means “the breath of life” and it is a sacred Hawaiian way of living, encouraging people to treat each other with love and respect.ĭespite experiencing racial discrimination due to his darker skin and struggling financially due to remaining an amateur athlete, Duke embodied the aloha spirit, sometimes even slowing down mid-race to allow his competitors to catch up with him. He was a gallant sportsman who valued the ‘aloha’ spirit of his homeland. A remarkable talent, Duke competed in three Olympic Games between 19, repeatedly setting the world record in the 100 meter freestyle and winning several medals. He spent his free time on the beach at Waikiki and sent ripples around the swimming world when, as a relative unknown, he smashed the American freestyle record, swiftly earning himself a place on the USA swimming team. As a young man, he dropped out of high school to earn money to support his family. Born in Honolulu in 1890, Duke Kahanamoku was the first world famous surfer. ![]()
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